Harley Stunt Parts: What Each Bolt-On Does, and How to Tell Good Parts From Sketchy Ones

Why Harley stunt riders run bolt-on parts

Stunt riding on a Harley means doing things the factory never designed the bike for: holding a wheelie straight up at "12 o'clock", dragging feet while the bike circles, and standing on the back of the bike. Dynas, Sportsters and touring baggers are the usual platforms. They're common, parts are easy to find, and the frames are well understood.

The problem is that the stock rear end isn't built to carry a rider's weight behind the seat or to have the whole bike resting on its tail. That's what stunt parts fix. They add a strong place to stand, a strong place for the bike to land on, and a rear brake you can work by hand when your feet are busy.

For a long time the only way to get those parts was to have a fabricator make them, or to drill and weld your own. Today several small shops sell them as bolt-on parts cut for specific model years. Bolt-on means they use mounting points that are already on the bike instead of new holes or welds. That makes builds faster and easier to undo, but only if the part actually fits your year. Most of this guide is about how to check that.

The core parts and what they actually do

Here is what each common part is for. The examples come from Stunt House, a shop that sells stunt parts for Dynas, Sportsters and baggers. All specs below are from their product pages.

Sub-cage rails

Sub-cage rails are steel rails that bolt along the outside of the rear of the bike, using the stock fender bolt holes. They strengthen the rear frame and carry the pegs and step plate. Stunt House's Dyna sub-cage rails are 1/4-inch steel, doubled to 1/2 inch at the front, with the pegs welded through that thick section. They're sold per side (clutch side or brake side), and the rear has slots for tow straps. Plastic Delrin sliders cover the pegs and can be replaced as a set when they wear down.

Step plate

The step plate is the platform behind the seat that the rider stands on. Stunt House's Dyna step plate is 1/8-inch steel, over 10 inches wide, and braces between the two sub-cage rails. It has a "toe kick" so your shoes don't beat up the fender. Note the fine print: it only works with their sub-cage rails and can't be mounted on its own.

12 o'clock bar and titanium

The 12 o'clock bar is the bar at the very back of the bike. When a rider holds a wheelie straight up at 12 o'clock, this is what the bike rests on. Stunt House's Dyna 12 o'clock bar is 1/4-inch steel, mounts through the stock fender bolt holes and needs no welding. They note that some models need fender trimming. Their bagger 12 bar is built for an 800-pound bike resting on it.

The "titanium" is a replaceable 1-inch-thick titanium strip that bolts along the 12 bar. It's what actually scrapes the ground and throws the sparks. It wears out and gets replaced, which is cheaper than replacing the bar. Stunt House sells it separately (Dyna titanium, $75).

Hand brake bracket

A hand brake setup lets the rider work the rear brake from the handlebar while their feet are off the controls, for example dragging a foot through a circle or riding the step plate. Stunt House's brackets are milled from one piece of 6061-T6 aluminum and bolt calipers to the stock 11.5-inch rear rotor. The Dyna version holds up to three 108mm radial-mount calipers. The Sportster version holds two, and comes with a separate billet brake stop, because 2004-and-up Sportster swingarms don't have one built in. Calipers, lines and master cylinder are separate purchases.

Hand brake lines

A hand brake needs its own long brake line from the bars to the rear caliper. Stunt House lists the common lengths as 74 inches for a Sportster, 78 inches for a Dyna and 84 inches for a bagger. Their lines are stainless braided and come with two banjos and crush washers. They also warn that the "common size" might not fit every bike, so measure your routing first.

Dyna-specific extras

• Case saver ($111): fills the gap between the engine case and the frame so the engine can't drop below the frame. That drop is what breaks motor mount tabs.
• Twin Cam oil pickup mod kit ($79, or $40 for the tube only): for 1999–2017 Dynas. It's aimed at riders who hold the bike at 12 o'clock. The kit includes the tap, billet tube, Loctite, a shortened Allen wrench and a new oil pan gasket.

Fitment: match the part to your exact years

Harley frames change between generations, so stunt parts are cut for specific year ranges. Buying the wrong year is the most common mistake. Before you order anything, know your model family (Dyna, Sportster or Touring) and the model year from your VIN or title.

Stunt House splits its parts like this:

Some other fitment notes from their listings that are easy to miss:

• The bagger short bag rails ($305 a pair) are marked chain drive only. On a belt-drive bike they will rub the pulley.
• The Sportster hand brake bracket needs at least an 11.5-inch rear rotor. On 2014-and-up Sportsters you must run an 11.5-inch rotor.
• The bagger hand brake brackets "fit some, not all" Road Glides, Street Glides and Road Kings. They also come in three size options (3/4 inch, 1 inch and 25mm), so check with the shop which one your bike needs.
• Step plates only bolt to their matching sub-cage rails.

When a seller puts limits like these right on the product page, that's a good sign. Parts with no year range or no caveats at all are the ones to worry about.

How to tell good stunt parts from sketchy ones

Stunt parts carry the bike, and sometimes the rider, during a fall. Cheap parts that bend or crack can do real damage. Here's what to look for on any listing, from any shop:

1. A stated material and thickness. "1/4-inch steel" or "6061-T6 billet aluminum" is something you can judge. "Heavy duty" is not.
2. A year range for every part. If the listing just says "fits Harley", ask before you buy.
3. Stock mounting points. Parts that bolt through existing holes (like fender bolt holes) are easier to install and remove than parts that need drilling or welding.
4. Honest caveats. Notes like "fender trimming required", "chain drive only" or "only works with our rails" show the seller has actually installed the part.
5. Hardware included. Check whether bolts, spacers and Loctite come in the box. Stunt House lists what's included on its bracket pages.
6. What's sold separately. Hand brake brackets usually don't include calipers or lines. 12 bars often don't include titanium. Price the whole setup, not just one part.
7. A real return policy and a way to reach someone. You should know before you buy what happens if the part doesn't fit.

Also check the welds and finish when the part arrives. Many stunt parts ship "raw" (bare steel) unless you pay for a powder-coated or gloss black finish. Raw parts will rust if you don't paint or coat them.

Stunt House: what it sells and what it costs

Stunt House sells stunt parts for Dynas, Sportsters and baggers under the slogan "Stunt Parts That Don't Suck". It also sells brake lines, banjos, gaskets and seals, and its own apparel.

Here are listed prices when we checked on October 3, 2026. Raw finish unless noted.

There are also separate listings for older bikes at slightly lower prices: the 1996–2005 Dyna and 2003-and-older Sportster sub-cage kits are $595 raw.

Shipping and returns, per their policies:

• The site advertises free domestic shipping on all Stunt House products.
• Their shipping policy says orders ship within 48 hours of purchase on weekdays.
• Their refund policy allows returns within 30 days of receiving the item. It must be unused and in its original packaging, and you start the return by emailing info@stunthouse.store first. Unrequested returns aren't accepted.

The reviews on their homepage mention fast shipping and a personal check-in to confirm the order was right. Those are the shop's own picks, so treat them as a starting point, not proof.

Install and ride it safely

Bolt-on doesn't mean no skill needed. A few rules that apply to any stunt build:

• Follow the torque specs in your service manual and any instructions that come with the part. Use thread locker where the part calls for it. Stunt House includes Loctite with its brackets.
• Treat the hand brake like the brake system it is. Adding calipers and a long line means bleeding the system properly. If you've never bled brakes, have a qualified mechanic do it or check your work. Test the brake at walking speed before you trust it.
• Check everything again after the first sessions. Bolts can settle and sliders and titanium wear down. Look for cracks around mounts, and check your fender and lines for rub marks.
• Wear real gear: a certified helmet, armored jacket, gloves and over-the-ankle boots. Stunts end in falls, even for good riders.
• Practice where it's legal, like a private lot with the owner's permission or an organized event. Stunting on public streets puts other people at risk and can get your bike impounded.
• Know your state's equipment rules. Changes to lights, plates and fenders can affect whether the bike is street legal.

Stunt riding is a skill sport, and the parts are only half of it. Start slow, learn on a bike you know, and add parts as your riding needs them.

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